前言：
摘要：
1.這篇會解釋一個關於牛仔褲腰帶環的詞叫Raised Belt Loop
2.這篇是一篇國外的推坑文，慎入
因為霜絮牛實在是很有意思
所以就來翻翻這篇推坑文
我在翻譯前一篇的時候，愈翻愈想買一件來養
不過目前手邊還有一件褲子還沒開養，畢竟人只有兩條腿，霜絮褲就隨緣吧
我相信我跟它真的有緣的話，它有一天就會自己出現在我的衣櫃啦 (屁)
本文：
Neppy Denim – Five Plus One
霜絮丹寧－五加一
DEC 1, 2015 |FIVE PLUS ONE |by Charlie
2 Comments
Five Plus One is our weekly series of buyer’s guides. We pick a specific category and dig up five great options along with one that’s a little outside the norm.
《五加一》是我們的每周好物推薦單元。我們會選某種特別類型的商品，深入介紹五款我們認為很棒的選擇，並外加一個稍為落榜一點點的商品。
Here at Heddels, we love heavily textured denim, but all too often “slub” is considered the end-all-be-all of irregularity, when nep has just as much to offer. Neppy denim is an interesting beast — it definitely gives a highly textured look, but often that texture doesn’t show without significant wear. Neps in contrasting colors can help to show the irregularities right off the bat, but nothing can replace real, heavy wear.
歡迎來到Heddels，我們熱愛具有豐富紋理的丹寧，但在這些豐富紋理的丹寧布料裡，我們太常關注竹節丹寧了，霜絮丹寧也是其中非常重要的一環。霜絮丹寧是一頭有趣的野獸－它絕對賦予了丹寧布料非常高的紋理感，但穿在身上卻常常不太明顯。雖然使用高對比的霜絮可以立即展現這件丹寧的與眾不同，但還是比不過真真切切操出來的色落迷人。
Below you’ll find not only a list of neppy denims, but of denims that look neppy when brand new, not just when worn in. Some neps are tonal, some are white, and some are available in a range of rainbow colors, but all of them are beautiful in their own way.
下面列了一系列的霜絮丹寧牛仔褲，不只是一些穿久了才會顯現出霜絮的褲子，有一些在全新的時候就霜絮感十足了。有一些霜絮是帶有顏色的，有一些是白色的，甚至有一些是色彩繽紛的、不只一種顏色，它們各自都有獨特、值得欣賞的一面。
1) Studio D’Artisan: D1625
Studio
D’Artisan is basically the company when comes to neppy denim. Their D1625 jeans are probably the neppiest
currently available, although if you are lucky you might be able to find a pair
of their 21Oz. X-33’s
Christmas Editions on the secondary market. The
fabric used for this pair has an indigo warp and grey weft, and, like many neppy
fabrics, contains a high percentage of synthetic fibers — they’re 70% cotton,
16% acrylic, and 14% polyester, although they’re incorrectly listed as 100%
cotton. These jeans use the same cut as the SD-107, which has a low/medium rise and an aggressive taper.
Each pair is finished with a black-dyed deerskin patch and copper rivets.
基本上談到霜絮丹寧一定會提到Studio D’Artisan這間公司。型號D1625 可能是現在可買到的牛仔褲裡，最霜絮的牛仔褲了，除非你能夠從二手市場挖到21Oz. X-33’s
Christmas Editions這件。這件牛仔褲使用了indigo色的經紗和灰色的緯紗，且和其他許多的霜絮布料一樣，它用了很多的合成纖維－70% 棉, 16% 壓克力纖維, 和 14% 聚酯纖維，不過官網把成分誤植為100%棉。這件牛仔褲版型和SD-107一樣，同樣都是中低腰極錐形牛仔褲。每一條褲子上的銅鉚釘的背後都有一塊染黑的鹿皮墊片。
2) Left Field: Chelsea in Deadstock Japanese Nep Denim
Left Field might not be a
brand that comes to mind when you think about highly irregular denim, but their Nep Chelsea Jean might just
change that. They’re made from a deadstock 10oz. Japanese denim, which has
smallish white neps throughout. They have a ton of great details, like Left
Field bandana pockets, raised belt loops, and Universal brand hardware.
當你想到特別質料的牛仔褲時可能不會想到Left Field這家公司，但他們的Nep
Chelsea Jean這款褲子可能會改變你的想法。這件牛仔褲是用庫存的日本丹寧布料製成的，布料上可以看到有一點一點的小霜絮。它有很多很棒的細節，像是Left Field的香蕉口袋內襯、中央隆起的皮帶環[1]和刻有品牌圖案的五金。
3) Shockoe: Rainbow Nep
The synthetic nep train continues, this time in the form of the 76%
cotton, 12% acrylic, and 12% polyester Rainbow Nep jean from Shockoe. These jeans
would be simple and understated, were it not for their yellow/orange contrast
stitching and gradient of nep colors. The color of the stitching and neps play
together beautifully, and really accentuates how awesome the fabric is. It
leaves a very simple message: these jeans aren’t about their solid
construction, quality hardware, or awesome details — they’re about finding a
gorgeous fabric and featuring it in the best way possible.
合成霜絮列車繼續行駛到下一站，這次介紹的是76% 棉, 12% 壓克力纖維, 和12% 聚酯纖維，Shockoe的Rainbow
Nep。你可以說這件簡單、低調，但你要先問過它的漸層霜絮，和黃橘對比的車線。車縫線的顏色和霜絮交織出美麗的畫面，真的是把這塊丹寧布料的美展露無遺。這件牛仔褲透露出一個簡單的訊息，它表現的不是堅固、高品質五金或其他超讚的細節，它表現的是找到一塊綺麗的布料，並且用最棒的方式去呈現它。
4) Stevenson Overall Co: Old Glory Nep Trousers
Next up is a brand that I wish I could say “needed no introduction,” but
sadly they don’t get nearly the love and attention they deserve. Stevenson
Overall Co. can’t be
truthfully described as a repro brand as they don’t seek to replicate the
designs of the past. What they do is create modern-inspired reproductions. I
liken it to the tradition of oral storytelling, where the story gets repeated
so many times that the details begin to change; the story may be the same, but
it’s adapted to the storyteller’s social atmosphere in the same way that SOC’s
designs have evolved to match the modern age.
接下來這個品牌我很希望我可以說“不需要介紹你也聽過”，但難過的是他們並沒有得到他們應得的名氣。不能說Stevenson
Overall Co.是一個復刻品牌，因為它並沒有完全追求古早的工裝設計。我喜歡說它像一個口耳相傳的故事，傳承的過程被訴說了太多次，以致於故事的細節發生了變化，雖然故事還是同一個，但它順應了訴說者當時的社會氣氛而改變，Stevenson
Overall Co.就是這樣的一個品牌，它的設計隨著時代而演進。
Their Denim Nep Trousers are a
particularly good exemplification of their style, taking a traditional trouser
design and doing some minor modifications, such as adding curved “smiley” back
pockets. It’s made with a 9.5oz. neppy Indigo/Silver-Grey denim, Universal
zipper, and SOC branded brass tag.
它們的Denim Nep Trousers充分的展現了他們的風格，以傳統褲子為基底，加上一些現代的元素，像是後口袋增加了微笑線。它是用indigo和銀灰色交織、9.5盎司的霜絮丹寧做成的，拉鍊設計，縫有黃銅色的SOC品牌標籤。
5) Freenote Cloth x Mildblend Supply Co: Nep Jean
Like many of the others on this list, this pair’s fabric has an interesting
composition; however, unlike the other pairs on this list, this jean from Freenote Cloth doesn’t
use synthetic materials, but instead a blend of cotton and wool. It is made
with 14.5oz. Yoshiwa Mills indigo/grey
denim with colorful neps throughout, as well as an indigo dyed leather patch
and Japanese Salmon-Red herringbone pocket bags.
就像這篇文章的其他褲子一樣，這件褲子的布料組成也很有趣，但不同於其他褲子的是，Freenote Cloth這件褲子並不含有人工合成纖維，取而代之的是羊毛。這件褲子使用了14.5盎司、indigo和灰色交織的Yoshiwa
Mills布料，彩色的霜絮，還有indigo染色的皮墊片及日本製的鮭魚紅人字紋口袋內襯。
Plus One – Japan Blue: Jazz Nep (Brown)
Last, but certainly not least, is Japan Blue’s Brown Jazz Nep tapered jeans.
Color neps are super popular right now, but some of us don’t want our indigo
jeans to stand out quite that much. These brown jazz neps find the perfect
middle-ground — they come in a beautiful earthy brown, and have blue, orange,
and dull pink neps throughout. The weft is made in a contrasting charcoal tone,
which makes wearing these cuffed a completely different experience.
最後，但並不是最不重要的一件，Japan Blue的Brown Jazz Nep錐形牛仔褲。彩色的霜絮是現在最夯的設計，但我們不希望在這個領域裡，被indigo色的牛仔褲獨領風騷。這款Brown
Jazz Nep找到了一個絕美的平衡點－布料的表面佈滿了大地棕、藍、橘和淡粉紅的霜絮。緯紗染成炭灰色的，使你穿這條褲子時，可以有完全不同於其他褲子的體驗。
註[1]：腰帶環利用特殊的縫法，使兩側縫線中間的部份隆起，防止車縫線因摩擦而斷線，reference
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