前言：
上次提到這兩篇網誌的大綱是：
1.定義原色褲
2.原色褲優點
3.原色褲的歷史
4.製造過程
5.專業術語
6.購物需知
7.如何照顧
而上次的【介紹】 原色丹寧的要點剖析(上) (翻譯自Heddels)介紹到第三點原色褲的歷史
所以這篇會接著把後面四點介紹完
分兩篇寫也是不要讓大家覺得這篇文章怎麼這麼長
出現「懶得看阿~」、「好麻煩啊~」、「現在放棄暑假就開始了啊~」之類的想法
大概就是這樣，那就開始吧！
本文：
The Essential Raw Denim Breakdown – Our 100th Article
原色丹寧的要點剖析－我們的第一百篇文章
SEP 12, 2011 |101 PRIMERS |by Nick Coe
40 Comments
How Raw Denim is Made
原色丹寧如何製造的
So how does that iconic and international fabric get to the point where it can be made into pants? We’ll leave out some of the details here, but in a nutshell, raw denim jeans are produced via these steps:
所以這些具指標性且國際化的布料是如何被製作成褲子的？我們會省略掉一些細節，但簡而言之，原色牛仔褲的製造是經過了以下這些步驟：
Sourcing
取得原料
Assuming the denim is produced with 100% cotton, the first step is simply sourcing the cotton plants. Cotton can be sourced from many different countries, ranging from Australia to Zimbabwe; and there are a variety of breeds and strains that have different properties like luster, softness, and durability.
假設丹寧是100%純棉的，第一個步驟就是從棉花樹上獲得棉料。棉可以從許多不同的國家取得，分布的範圍從澳洲至辛巴威都有；而且還有很多不同的品種，不同品種各有不同的特性，像是光澤、柔軟度和耐用度。
How the cotton is harvested varies with location. There are those that pick the cotton by hand while some employ mechanical techniques. Steps taken afterward include cotton carding (i.e. cleaning), inspecting, combing, opening, and blending – essentially making the cotton clean and removing all impurities and chaff so it’s ready for the next stage.
不同的地區盛產不同品種的棉花。有一些是用手採收，有一些是用機器採收。採收之後的步驟包含梳理（如清洗）、檢查、分離和混紡－實際上就是去除雜質使棉花乾淨，這樣棉花才能進入下一個階段。
Spinning
紡織
Now that the cotton has been sourced, cleaned, and packaged in nice long “slivers”, it’s time for it to be spun. The individual cotton fibers are combined and twisted to create the yarns that will eventually be woven to create the denim fabric.
現在棉花都已經被採收、清潔且整理成漂亮的“銀”絲線了，是紡織它的時候了。這些獨立的棉纖維會被結合、揉擰成紗線，最後會被編織成丹寧布料。
There are several types of spinning, including open-end, ring, and double ring spun (aka “ring-ring”). Though there are many more details included here, note that ring and double-ring spun denim is more desirable – since it is thicker, leads to stronger fade contrasts (it doesn’t absorb indigo dye as well as open-end spun denim), and has greater slubbiness (uneven threads).
紡紗方法有很多種，包含空氣紡、環錠紡和雙環錠紡。雖然在這裡有許多的學問，但我們只要知道環錠紡和雙環碇紡的丹寧布料是比較誘人的就好－因為它比較厚，可以產生比較強的色落對比（和空氣紡丹寧一樣不吸收indigo染劑），而且色落會有更棒的竹節感（因為不平坦的線程）
Warping & Dyeing
整經和染色
The cotton moves on to the next stage, “warping”. Woven fabric consists of warp yarns (length-wise, indigo dyed) and weft yarns (cross-wise, left un-dyed and thus labelled “filling yarn”).
這些棉料接著進行下一個階段，“整經”。編織布料包含了經紗（縱向，染成indigo色）和緯紗（橫向，保持未染色，又稱“填充紗”）
Warp yarns are prepared by selecting the longer yarn from the ring-spun yarn and dyeing. There are three main methods of indigo dyeing – loop dyeing, slasher dyeing, and rope dyeing. We’ll explore those more in depth in the future, but know that rope dyeing is considered superior as it is more laborious, specialized, and results in better fades (due to only the yarn surfaces being dyed).
挑選好環錠紡紗並染色後，經紗就完成了。紗的indigo染色方法主要有三種－循環染、經軸染和繩染。我們未來會在這塊探討更深，但現在只要先知道繩染被認為是比較優良的就好，因為它更費力、特別，且色落的結果更佳（因為只有經紗的表面會被染色）
In general, the indigo-dyed warp yarns are interlaced with the natural colored, un-dyed weft yarns, and there are two types of looms – shuttle looms (remember when we mentioned those above?) and shuttle-less (aka air-jet or projectile) looms. While the former produces less than the latter, they are more rare, result in finished edges (hence, “self-edge”), and typically more coveted (though this is of course subjective).
通常來說，被染成indigo顏色的經紗會和顏色自然、沒經過染色的緯紗交錯編織在一起，編織的織布機有兩種類型－梭織機（還記得我們以前提過嗎？）和無梭織機（又名噴氣式織機和片梭織機）。前者的產出比後者少，他們更稀有，會在結束時收邊（因此有了“會自己收的邊緣”這個單字），且一般來說更讓人垂延三尺（這當然是看個人主觀）。
There are also a variety of weaving variations, including right-hand twill, broken twill, and left-hand twill; and the end-result is a sheet of denim fabric.
另外編織的變化也有很多種，包含右斜紋、破斜紋和左斜紋；而最後的成果，就是一片丹寧布料。
Finishing
完成
The denim sheets are then rolled into drums and shipped off to the brand that ’s going to make it into jeans. Some denim brands complete their sewing and stitching via larger facilities, while others favor one-man operations (such as Ande Whall and Roy).
接著丹寧布會被滾成一綑並運送至品牌商，然後做成牛仔褲。有一些丹寧品牌會外包給大工廠去完成這些針線活，另一些則喜歡自己完成這項工作。
That’s it! Not once during the finishing process is the denim distressed or washed in any way. It is left in its most pure and rawest state, and will only deteriorate with the wearer’s personal use.
就是這樣！在完成的過程中沒有任何破壞或是洗色。它保持著最純粹、最生澀的狀態，它只會隨著穿著使用者的個人習慣產生變化。
Check out the video below for a more multimedia-rich, albeit rough, understanding of the denim manufacturing process.
來看看下面這支影片，雖然內容粗淺，但比起文字多了聲音及影像可以了解丹寧的製造過程。
Raw Denim Terms to Know
了解原色丹寧用語
When you first hear a denimhead talking about raw denim it can sound like a foreign language (slubbiness, nep, 3×1 twill, etc.). You can get to those later, but there are a few terms that will help you understand enough to make your first informed purchase.
當你第一次聽到一個丹寧狂談到原色丹寧，可能就像聽到外國語言一樣（竹節感、霜絮感、三上一下斜紋之類的）。你可以慢一點再了解那些，但現在這裡有幾個詞你要了解，這些詞足夠幫助你完成你的第一次內行購物。
Selvedge
布邊
The selvedge outseam on a pair of Japan Blue Jeans.
一件Japan Blue Jeans牛仔褲的外接合處布邊
The most common word that you’ve heard surrounding raw denim is probably Selvedge–this refers to those little colored lines that often run along the outseam of a pair of jeans. Simply put, selvedge denim has had the edge of the fabric “self-edged” by a shuttle loom as it was woven to keep it from
unraveling. Just because it’s selvedge though doesn’t mean it’s raw or even that it’s denim — almost any fabric can be woven with a selvedge.
你最常聽到關於原色丹寧的詞應該是布邊－這是指那些小小的、色彩繽紛，經常沿著牛仔褲的外緣接合處延伸的線。簡單來說，用梭織機織出來的布邊丹寧會在布料的邊緣“自己收邊”，去防止布料瓦解。
Selvedge textiles for the most part faded away in the 1950’s when denim demand skyrocketed and manufacturers like Levi’s and Lee switched to the far-cheaper and faster projectile looms, but there has been a strong resurgence amongst raw denim fans in the past few years. A selvedge line doesn’t necessarily equate to better denim, but the mills producing the most interesting and highest quality fabrics are usually producing them on selvedge shuttle looms.
大部分的布邊紡織品在1950年代隨著丹寧需求的快速暴漲，和大型公司如Levi’s和Lee更換更便宜、更快速的片織機之後消失了，但在過去短短幾年，又在原色丹寧粉絲之間強勢回歸了。雖然有布邊並不一定就等於更好的牛仔褲，但工廠在生產最有意思、最高品質的布料時，往往是使用布邊梭織機來生產。
Sanforization
防縮
Unsanforized shrink to fit denim before washing (left) and after (right).
無預縮，縮水至合身丹寧，還沒洗之前（左）和洗之後（右）
Another term you might have encountered is Sanforization. Almost every fabric, including denim) will shrink a certain amount the first time it gets wet. Most denim on the market (raw and otherwise) is sanforized, which is a steaming and heating process that pre-shrinks the fabric before it is cut and
sewn into jeans.
另一個你可能會遇到的詞是防縮。幾乎所有的布料（包含丹寧）都會在第一次浸濕的時候縮水一點點。大多數的市售丹寧（原色或其他）都是防縮的，是一種透過蒸汽和加熱，讓面料在剪裁拼湊成牛仔褲之前先預縮的程序。
Unsanforized denim (often called “Shrink-to-Fit”) will shrink about 5-10% the first time it is washed. You have to be much more careful when sizing unsanforized denim and factor that it may shrink up to two inches in the waist.
無預縮丹寧（常常稱“縮至合身”）在第一次洗滌的時候會縮大約5-10%。在選擇無預縮丹寧的尺寸時必須更加小心，腰圍有可能會縮水兩吋。
Weight
磅數
Another focus of raw denim is the Weight of the fabric. The weight refers to how much a yard of the fabric weighs in ounces (oz.). Weights can range from the ultra-light at 5oz. all the way up to the monstrously heavy 32oz. A heavier fabric will be stiffer, tougher, and require more effort before they
are comfortable. Most raw denim, however, will be somewhere around 12oz.-15oz. This weight can be worn year round and won’t be too much of a pain to break in.
另外一個原色丹寧的重點就是布料的磅數。磅數是指每一碼布料的重量，單位磅（oz）。磅數範圍可以從極輕磅的5盎司至怪物極重磅32盎司。重磅的布料更硬、更強，且要費很大的功夫才能讓它變得比較舒服。大部分的原色丹寧磅數落在12盎司至15盎司之間。這個區間內的磅數可以全年穿著且不會穿得太痛苦。
Learn all about other denim terminology via our Dictionary.
透過我們的字典了解更多丹寧術語。
Your First Raw Denim Purchase
你的原色丹寧首次購物
Now that you know the appeal of raw denim and some of the basic language around it, how do you go about buying your first pair?
現在你知道原色丹寧的要點和一些基本術語了，那你要如何去買你的第一條原色牛仔褲呢？
Measurements
測量尺寸
Unless you live near a brick and mortar store (find out if you do with our Store Guide) you’re most likely going to be buying your jeans online. To make sure you buy jeans with the proper fit, you first need to know your measurements. There are six key measurements you’ll want to take into account:
除非你就住在實體店的旁邊（用我們的店址導覽看看你是否真的住在旁邊），你很可能要利用網路去購買牛仔褲。為了確保你可以買到合適的牛仔褲，你必須先知道你的尺寸。這裡有六個關鍵尺寸你會想要記起來。
1.Waist – Circumference of the jeans top block
腰圍
2.Rise – Length from the top of the inseam to the very top of the fly
褲襠長
3.Thigh – Distance from the top of the inseam across to the outseam
大腿寬
4.Knee – Distance from the inseam to the outseam halfway down the jean
膝蓋寬
5.Leg Opening – Distance from the inseam to the outseam at the hem of the jean
褲腳寬
6.Inseam – Length from the bottom of the crotch to the end of the leg
褲管內側長度
You can find your ideal measurements by taking a measure tape to your best fitting pair of jeans. Pretty much every raw denim retailer has these numbers listed on their website, so once you know your measurements, you’ll have the confidence to buy any jean, anywhere.
你可以利用捲尺去量測你最合身的牛仔褲，去找到最適合你的尺寸。幾乎所有的原色丹寧零售商都有在他們的網站上列出這些數字，所以當你一旦知道你的尺寸，你就可以充滿自信地去買任何地方的牛仔褲了。
Fits
版型
Slim Straight (Left Field Greaser) and Slim Tapered (3sixteen ST-100x)
修身直筒（Left Field Greaser）和修身錐形（3sixteen ST-100x）
Like most everything you wear, fit is especially critical. Straight Leg, Tapered, Slim Tapered, and Slim Straight are all common fit options; you’ll have to consider what works for you in terms of comfort and look. It’s not worth sacrificing your future children to stuff your tree-trunk thighs into a
pair of heavyweight skinny raw denim that feels like Kevlar. Buy what works for you, and you (and your future generations) will be infinitely happier.
就像多數的單品一樣，合身是最要緊的。直筒、錐形、修身錐形和修身直筒全都是很常見的版型；你必須要考慮，就舒服和好看度而言，哪一種比較適合你。不值得為了把樹幹般的大腿塞進一件重磅、窄身，如凱夫拉纖維製的原色牛仔褲裡，而犧牲你未來的小孩。買適合你的，你（和你未來的子孫）就會感到無限的快樂。
Budget
預算
Momotaro Gold Label jeans are made from hand woven denim and retail for $2000.
用手工編織丹寧布製造的桃太郎金標牛仔褲，零售價2000美元。
Next, consider your budget. Raw and selvedge denim can range anywhere from $20 to $2000. The reason for this is the massive number of different fabrics, details, and manufacturing techniques available on the market.
下一步，考慮你的預算。原色和布邊單寧的價錢範圍很廣，可以從20美元至2000美元。為什麼價差這麼大的原因是，在市場上有非常多不同的面料、細節和製造技術可以供你選擇。
Keep in mind that just because a jean is more expensive does not necessarily mean it will be more durable, many of the manufacturers at the higher price points are simply offering something you can’t find anywhere else. For example, Roy Slaper of Roy Denim makes every single pair of jeans himself on rare vintage sewing machines, Sugar Cane & Co. in Japan uses a specialty denim that weaves in sugarcane fibers with the cotton for a unique feel and fade, Naked & Famous even makes a scratch and sniff denim that smells like raspberries.
切記，不是比較貴的牛仔褲就一定比較耐用，很多高價的牛仔褲是因為製造商提供了一些你無法在其他地方找到的特色。Roy Denim的每一件牛仔褲都是Roy Slaper自己使用稀有的復古縫紉機製作的。日本的Sugar Cane & Co. 是使用一種甘蔗纖維做成，且具有獨特質感和色落的丹寧布。Naked & Famous甚至做了一件聞起來像覆盆子的牛仔褲。
If you want to learn more about what separates the different price points of jeans, have a look at our article The Three Tiers of Raw Denim: Entry, Mid, and End Level.
如果你想要知道更多不同價位牛仔褲的分別，可以看看我們的原色褲的三個等級：入門、中階和最高階這篇文章。
If you’re just getting into raw denim, however, the best entry level jean we recommend is the Unbranded 201, it costs $82 and you can read all about why we picked it here. Also, be sure to have a look around our Scout tool, which searches through thousands of pairs of jeans to find the ideal match for your measurements, budget, and needs.
如果你才剛要入門原色牛仔褲，我們會推薦Unbranded 201作為你的最佳的入門級牛仔褲，價錢是82美元，你可以在這篇文章（放了一個超連結）讀到為什麼我們要選這件。還有，可以看看我們的偵查工具網，它可以搜尋上千種的牛仔褲，設定你的尺寸、預算和需求，讓你找到你理想中的牛仔褲。
Caring for Raw Denim
照顧原色丹寧
Now that you’ve got your raws, how do you care for them? Fades are such a central part of raw denim’s lore that they are celebrated unto themselves with fanatical devotion. The longer you go without the first wash, the greater the fades can theoretically be. However, the oft-repeated adage of
wearing your raw denim for at least six months without washing can be a little overkill.
現在你已經買到你的原色丹寧了，你該如何照料它們呢？色落是原色丹寧神話的核心，能夠不下水穿越長的時間，理論上就能得到越漂亮的色落。然而，經常重複的穿你的原色丹寧長達六個月以上沒洗，味道可能會有一點點太殺了。
Some people put their jeans in the freezer to “kill” the funky odor-causing bacteria, but it’s not conclusive if that truly works. What we say is just wash your jeans when you feel like it. While no washes might make for more extreme fades, it also builds up dirt and grime in the fabric which only
leads to more holes and blowouts. A safe balance is to wash your pair every month or two with an all-natural soap like Dr. Bronner’s or a detergent for dark colors like Woolite, but that’s by no means a hard-and-fast rule.
有些人把他們的牛仔褲放進冷凍庫去“殺死”產生霉臭味的細菌，但並沒有結論說這樣真的有效。我們的建議是，當你想洗的時候就去洗你的牛仔褲吧。雖然不洗可能可以創造出更極致的色落，但也同時累積了會使牛仔褲破更多洞的泥土和灰塵。一個比較保險的折衷辦法是，每一到兩個月就用Dr. Bronner’s純天然香皂或專門洗深色的Woolite洗滌劑來清洗，但這不是一個鐵則就是了。
The biggest takeaway from raw denim is that these pants grow to reflect who you are and what you do in them. So live your life, treat them like hell, and wash them when you think they need it. When you’re ready to wash, have a look at our complete washing guide to how to do it right.
原色丹寧最大的重點就是，這些褲子反映了你是誰、你做了什麼。所以活出自己，對待它們不用客氣，想洗它們的時候就洗。當你準備要洗它們的時候，看一下我們的完全清洗指引，就會知道怎麼洗才是對的。
The reason people are so crazy about raw jeans is because you essentially make a pair your own. As many denimheads say, “it’s a canvas that paints itself.” We hope that we’ve cleared up some of the mystery and myths surrounding raw denim so you can get to work on painting that first
masterpiece.
人們會對原色丹寧感到瘋狂的原因就是，你真的親自設計了一條牛仔褲。就像許多丹寧迷說的“這是一張會自己彩繪的油畫”。希望我們這篇文章有破除掉一些關於原色丹寧的迷思，現在你們可以開始著手彩繪出你們的第一件創世巨作了。
後記：
總算是把整篇翻好翻滿了
不得不說這真的是一篇非常有系統、又基礎的丹寧入門文章
當然在丹寧這個世界裡，還有非常多有趣的東西可以談
光是品牌就能介紹非常久，歐洲、美國、日本的丹寧品牌各有各的性格
除了品牌之外，布料、剪裁、縫製法、染色技術...，太多有意思的東西，甚至很多我都還不懂
當然這些以後有機會再慢慢談吧，我也算是一邊在學習新的知識啊
文末也期許一下自己
希望可以一直秉持著初衷
「希望用比較系統的方式，循序漸進的讓丹寧入門者了解這個廣大的世界」
慢慢把這個部落格經營好
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