前言:
為了慶祝這第一篇網誌，就來稍微碎念一下怎麼喜愛上牛仔服飾好了
（應該沒人想聽吧！？）
好啦簡言之就是被丹寧布料那種硬漢般的性格給吸引了這樣
大概從大三開始，狂看網路上各種丹寧歷史的介紹
當時都是很沒有系統的在看，一堆術語看得很迷糊
什麼LVC啦、赤耳、原色、重磅...等等，東看一點，西看一點
就像用不規則的方法在拼湊一張大拼圖一樣
幾年後的現在，雖然不敢說自己很懂，但應該足夠用比較系統的方式介紹給入門者了啦
這也是這個部落格會誕生的原因
「希望用比較系統的方式，循序漸進的讓丹寧入門者了解這個廣大的世界」
因為是興趣使然的丹寧愛好者，所以新增文章的頻率不太一定
盡量不會荒廢部落格太久就是啦～
這個部落格將來的內容大致上會是以下幾種文章
1.翻譯外國有意思的丹寧文章
2.自己整理的一些資料
3.開箱文
4.有感而發的碎念
5.色落分享
而今天這篇網誌，就是翻譯自國外一個很有名的丹寧網站Heddels的一篇文章
文末會附上原文網址，讓大家可以自己去欣賞欣賞
在開始本文之前，大概摘要一下今天這篇文章的內容
這是一篇很基礎卻又很詳細的原色牛仔褲介紹文
非常適合想了解丹寧世界的初學者
就像新手村長老的碎念那樣，不過一般打電動都是急著按跳過吧（笑）
文章分成幾個章節:
1.定義原色褲
2.原色褲優點
3.原色褲的歷史
4.製造過程
5.專業術語
6.購物需知
7.如何照顧
這篇文章非常的長，我會拆成上下兩篇來介紹
上篇會介紹到原色褲的歷史，基本上內容都不會太生澀
下篇會從製作過程開始，就會講到比較一些比較專業的部份...
我會把原文都留著，讓有興趣想要知道原文長怎樣的人可以看得更清楚
畢竟如果自己知道英文的原文了，就像是漫畫裡面發現新世界那樣，有更廣大的世界可以探索了啊！！
好啦 廢話不多說了 下面是我弱弱的翻譯全文
如果有人發現我哪裡翻錯 或認為有更棒的翻法歡迎跟我講喔
畢竟我也是興趣使然的翻譯啊！
本文：
The Essential Raw Denim Breakdown – Our 100th Article
原色丹寧的要點剖析－我們的第一百篇文章
SEP 12, 2011 |101 PRIMERS |by Nick Coe
40 Comments
Denim jeans could be the most popular item of clothing on the planet. Chances are you already own (at least) one pair of them and you’ve probably also heard about the cultural phenomenon that is Raw Denim.
牛仔褲可以說是地球上最受歡迎的單品了。原色牛仔褲，你可能已經聽過這個文化現象， 也可能早已擁有（至少）一條了。
If you only know whispers of the discomfort associated with raw denim, the supposed high cost, or even about people putting their jeans in the freezer, then this post is for you. We’re here to explain exactly what raw denim is, some basic raw denim terminology (selvedge, fades, etc.), and how you to care for it.
如果你只聽過原色牛仔褲不太舒服、很貴、或甚至有人把它們放進冷凍櫃的傳言，那這篇文章就是寫給你的。我們會在這篇文章解釋原色牛仔褲到底是什麼、一些原色牛仔褲的專 有名詞，還有如何照顧它。
After reading this post, you should understand what the hype is all about and be able to make an informed raw denim purchase.
在讀過這篇文章之後，你就會明白所有的噱頭，並可以正確的購買原色牛仔褲。
What Is Raw Denim?
什麼是原色丹寧？
Selvedge raw denim fabric.
布邊原色丹寧布料
Raw denim (aka dry denim) is simply denim fabric that remains unwashed, untreated, and virtually untouched from when it rolls off the loom to when it is sold to you. It’s denim in its purest form.
原色丹寧是一種從被紡織機織出來，到賣到你手上的過程中，保持著沒被洗過、沒被處理過、也沒被改變過，最單純的丹寧布料。它是丹寧布料最純淨的形式。
Raw denim usually has a crispy and stiff feel and easily leaves traces of its indigo dye behind when it rubs against another surface–even your hands (this phenomenon is called crocking). Be careful what you rub up against when wearing a new pair of raw denim jeans, you might leave a bit of blue behind.
原色丹寧通常有一種又脆又硬的質感，而且當它和其他表面摩擦時容易留下它的indigo色痕跡，連你的手也不例外（這種現象又稱摩擦脫色）。當你穿著新的原色牛仔褲時小心你摩擦到的東西，你可能會在離開的時候留下一抹藍。
The Benefits of Raw Denim
原色丹寧的優點
So why go through all this hassle just for a new pair of jeans? One of the biggest benefits of raw denim, and the indigo loss, is that they develop and age based on what you do in them and to them. Every mile you walk, every scrape on the concrete, every item you keep regularly in your pocket leaves its mark. The dark indigo dye slowly begins to chip away revealing the light electric blue and eventually the white cotton core of the denim yarns the more you wear them. What’s left is a wholly unique garment that was formed and faded to you and you alone.
所以為什麼要為了僅僅一件新牛仔褲搞的這麼麻煩呢？因為原色丹寧和indigo染劑脫色其中一個最大的優點，就是這個掉色的特性，它會隨著你穿著它時做的事，和你對它做的一舉一動，產生改變和舊化。每一哩路、每一道刮痕、每一個放在口袋裡的日常用品，都會留下印記。你愈常去穿它們，深色的indigo藍就會開始慢慢蠶食，轉變為明亮的閃電藍，最終露出丹寧紗線的白色棉芯。最後留下的就是一件以你為藍圖去色落的獨特服裝。
Take a look at this pair of Pure Blue Japan jeans below. The pair on the left is brand new, and the pair on the right have been worn for just over a year. If you want to see more examples of faded raw denim, check out our Fades section.
來看一下這件Pure Blue Japan 牛仔褲。左邊那件是全新的，而右邊那件被穿了僅僅一年。如果你想看更多原色牛仔褲色落的例子，可以看看我們的色落章節。
Other benefits of raw denim include:
其他原色丹寧的優點包含：
- Greater Durability – Since the fabric has not been artificially stonewashed, lasered, and sandblasted, you get the full life of the fabric involved, hence why many vintage garments have lasted so long.
- 更強的耐久性－因為布料還沒有經過人工石洗、雷射和噴砂，你可以享受這個布料的一生， 這就是為什麼很多古著服裝可以保存這麼久的原因。
- More Eco and Labor Friendly – It takes an awful lot of water to grow enough cotton for a pair of jeans, but washing and distressing them takes even more, an average of 42 liters per jean. By buying raw, none of that water needs to go to waste. It also doesn’t expose workers to the harmful chemicals often used to distress and wash denim.
- 對環境和勞工更友善－要灌溉出足夠做一條牛仔褲的棉花量，需要花費很多的水，而去刷色它要花更多水，平均每一件牛仔褲要花42公升的水。買原色牛仔褲，就不需要浪費這麼多的水。而且也不會使工人暴露在加工刷色牛仔褲時使用的有害化學物質裡。
- Less Clutter – Many raw denim fans will wear the same pair of jeans everyday for months or years at a time. This could very well be your only pair of pants!
- 減少雜亂－很多原色丹寧的粉絲會每天穿同一件牛仔褲好幾個月，甚至好幾年。它可能是你唯一的一條褲子！
- Greater Value – Although the cost of entry is often high, the greaterdurability often leads to many more wears per pair.
- 更有價值－雖然購入的單價常常很高，但更強的耐久度也使得每一條原色牛仔褲可以抵過更多件其他種褲子。
The History of Raw Denim
原色丹寧的歷史
A pair of Levi’s 501 jeans from the late 1880s.
一條1880年代晚期的Levi’s 501
While the vast majority of denim jeans sold today are distressed and washed before you buy them, nearly all denim was sold raw and crispy up until the 1970s. Denim was primarily a workwear fabric–hence the term “blue collar”. Denim was sturdy and tough, but still relatively soft, flexible, and comfortable once it was broken in.
雖然現在販賣的主流牛仔褲是水洗牛仔褲，但直到1970年代前幾乎所有的丹寧都是以原色的形式販賣。丹寧曾經是工人服飾的主要布料，因此有了“藍領”這個詞。丹寧非常的堅固，但一旦被穿過後又會變得相對柔軟、彈性和舒適。
The word denim comes from the original name of the fabric “serge de Nimes”, serge meaning sturdy fabric and de Nimes meaning of the town of Nimes, France. There is some contention over whether denim was actually developed in Nimes, but everyone agrees that there is one event that solidified denim jeans as we know and love them today.
丹寧這個詞是源自於布料最原始的名字“serge de Nimes”， “serge”意思是扎實強壯的布料，“de Nimes”是一個法國的城鎮。雖然丹寧是不是真源自於Nimes這個小鎮還有爭議，但所有人都同意一個事實，我們熟悉也喜愛堅固的丹寧牛仔褲。
Jacob Davis (left) and Levi Strauss (right)
雅各布．戴維斯（左）和李維斯（右）
In the early 1870s, a Latvian immigrant tailor named Jacob Davis was producing clothing for miners in Reno, Nevada. Davis had developed a new way to secure the stress points on pants–copper rivets. Miners were thrilled with the increased durability and Davis tried to capitalize on the discovery by patenting his invention but had failed several times at the patent office.
在1870年代，一位名叫雅各布．戴維斯的拉脫維亞移民裁縫師在內華達的里諾為礦工生產衣服。戴維斯研發了一種新的方法去強化褲子的應力集中點－銅鉚釘。礦工們因為褲子耐久度提升而感到開心，戴維斯則嘗試利用申請發明專利的方式，去資本化他的事業，但一直止步在專利辦公室而失敗。
Davis reached out to his fabric supplier in San Francisco, Levi Strauss, a Bavarian dry goods merchant, about going into business together. Strauss and Davis received the patent in 1873 and soon began making the riveted denim jeans “waist overalls” that would define the how we think of jeans today.
戴維斯聯繫了他在舊金山的布料供應商李維斯－一個巴伐利亞裁縫工具供應商，討論是否一起做這筆生意。李維斯和戴維斯在1873年成功通過專利，並且開始生產鉚釘接合的牛仔褲“齊腰工裝褲”，就是這款褲子，定義了我們今日所熟知的牛仔褲。
Denim jeans were about as far away from the fashion world as possible at this point–it was pure utilitarian function. If anyone cared to look at the brand or the make of their denim, it was purely to see which one would hold up better under abuse. This would be denim’s identity through the early
twentieth century.
牛仔褲在此時可能離時尚世界非常的遙遠，它是純功能性的。當時如果有任何人在乎他們牛仔褲的品牌或是做工，都是在找哪一種牛仔褲比較耐操。這是二十世紀早期對丹寧的定位。
Western star Tom Mix wearing jeans in “The Untamed” (1920)
西部明星湯姆米克斯在電影“The Untamed” (1920) 穿著牛仔褲
It wasn’t until the 1920s that denim’s reach began to expand beyond workwear. Denim jeans became the de facto cowboy uniform in revisionist Hollywood western films and children all over the country wanted a pair so they could dress up like their on screen idols. At this point, denim was still largely a costume to most Americans, but it did serve to normalize denim to the middle class.
一直到1920年代，丹寧穿著才開始擴展到工裝之外的領域。丹寧褲開始變成好萊屋西部電影裡牛仔的制服，全國的小孩都想要一條丹寧褲，這樣他們才可以打扮得像電影偶像一樣。在此時，丹寧大多是美國的平民服飾，不過這樣的風氣確實有影響到一些中產階級。
During WWII, many Americans put on denim for the first time as they went to work in factories to produce for the US war effort. Once the war ended, however, many soldiers and workers refused to take their jeans off. This gave denim a countercultural and anti-social bent, wearing jeans in polite company in the 1950s was considered transgressive at best and immoral at worst. This sentiment resonated well with suburban teenagers, who identified with the anti-authoritarian and denim clad characters in movies like Rebel Without a Cause and The Wild One.
在二戰期間，很多去工廠工作、為美國戰事努力生產的美國人第一次穿上牛仔褲。但當戰爭結束後，有很多士兵和工人不願意改變穿牛仔褲的習慣。這給了牛仔褲一個非主流文化和反社會的概念，穿牛仔褲在1950年代的世俗禮制下，好一點被認為是踰矩，最差會被認為是不道德的。
James Dean wearing Lee Riders in the 1955 film “Rebel Without a Cause”
詹姆斯．狄恩在1955年的電影“Rebel Without a Cause”穿著Lee Riders
The breaking point, however, finally came with the Elvis Presley film Jailhouse Rock. The ensuing popularity of the King’s hi-gyrating antics was too much for mainstream Americans to deny, and over the next couple of decades, denim gradually became accepted as a casual clothing option.
然而轉捩點終於隨著埃爾維斯．普雷斯利的電影Jailhouse Rock來了。電影裡牛仔褲的形象，受歡迎的程度實在是太高了，以致於主流美國人無法拒絕，在接下來的數十年，丹寧逐漸被接受，成為休閒穿著的一種選擇。
Average Americans, however, weren’t used to the break in process nor the fades that could take months or years to get perfect. The most popular casual denim brands in the 1970s and 80s were those that stonewashed and distressed their jeans before the customers bought them and saved them the effort of breaking them in. So now everyone could put on a pair of jeans that felt like pajama pants right after they pulled off the price tag.
然而當時多數的美國人，並不習慣自己穿到破壞，或自己穿出經年累月的完美色落。1970至80年代最受歡迎的休閒牛仔品牌，都是賣一些已經被石洗、破壞過的牛仔褲，幫客人省掉一些想穿出破壞的努力。所以每個人都可以像穿睡褲一樣輕鬆的購買並穿上他們的牛仔褲。
Brooke Shields wearing broken in denim for her famous 1981 Calvin Klein ad.
波姬．希爾斯在1981年著名的CK廣告穿著破壞牛仔褲
During this period, Japanese denim enthusiasts became disillusioned with American denim manufacturers. They believed that Levi’s, Lee, and the other brands had lost their way, and a small group of Japanese companies began reproducing jeans in the same manner as the American brands from the 1940s, 50s, and 60s. They rewove their own selvedge denim, recast buttons and rivets, and even bought up the old sewing machines that used to make American workwear so they could produce their own new “vintage” jeans.
在這段時期，日本的丹寧愛好者開始對美國丹寧工廠感到幻滅。他們覺得Levi’s、Lee和其他品牌已經走偏了道路，於是一小群日本公司開始使用美國牛仔褲公司在1940至1960年代的生產方法，來生產牛仔褲。他們重新紡織自己的布邊丹寧布，重新鑄造鈕扣和鉚釘，甚至還收購了過去曾經紡織美國工裝的舊式縫紉機，這樣他們就可以生產屬於他們自己的新“復古”牛仔褲。
A pair of Japanese made jeans from Studio D’Artisan.
一件日製的Studio D’Artisan牛仔褲
These “reverse-engineered” jeans from brands like Studio D’Artisan, Evisu, and Denime began to expand beyond Japan in the late 1990s and soon inspired a new wave of American brands to recreate the jeans of the past with their own special touches and fabrics.
這些“逆向工程”的牛仔褲，如Studio D’Artisan、 Evisu和 Denime在1990年代開始拓展到日本之外，很快地就刺激了美國品牌，掀起一波用獨特、自創風格和布料，重新製造老時代牛仔褲的浪潮。
With these new brands like Raleigh, Left Field, and Tellason producing and selling domestically in the late 2000s, raw denim’s popularity in the United States grew rapidly. Today, there are dozens and dozens of small manufacturers making raw denim all over the world, enough to the point where sites like ours exist to document it all.
一些新的品牌像是Raleigh、 Left Field和 Tellason，開始於2000年代後期在美國國內生產和販售，原色丹寧在美國的受歡迎程度快速增長。今日，全世界有無數個小的原色丹寧製造商，若要標記它們全部的分布點，足夠去點出世界人口的分布了。
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